Falles de València 2022

2022 was my first Falles after close to three decades. I can’t even remember the last time I was fully engaged with these truly unique festivities. Nowhere else in the world can you experience this frenetic pace and the passion for fireworks. Many a thing has changed in thirty years, but the essence remains, and the tradition persists and continues through to the next generations. Below are a few examples of the Falles of 2022, which endured an unusually wet and coldish weather that could not dampen the popular spirit of Valencian neighbourhoods. Covid-19 may have cancelled the Falles two years, but the festival seems to have triumphed over the adversity. Like the phoenix, its life-force has risen from the ashes of times past.

Change is afoot in the form of a return to the essence: many falleros and falleras now don costumes which are closer to the more traditional garments of a different era. 

The world of magic, trickery and populism. Falla Arxiduc Carles-Xiva. The purple figure below is the former leader of Podemos.

 

Two views of the children's Falla at Bisbe Amigó-Conca. The smaller versions tend to create clusters and look therefore more baroque and ornate. This was First Prize in Section 1 (not the big ones, known as Special Section).

Falla de la Plaça del Pilar, in the heart of the old town obtained the 2nd Prize in the Special Section. The scene above depicts two prostitutes in the red-light district and the Mayor. The keyword of the whole monument is "Checkmate".

Biden, Putin and, behind them, Xi Jinpin. Caustic criticism of global affairs is ever present in Les Falles. Falla de la Plaça del Pilar. 

Not even the Head of State is safe from satire. Falla de la Plaça del Pilar. 

The Spanish Royal Family and their never ending scandals are again the target. Falla de la Plaça del Pilar.

The theme of this year's Municipal Children's Falla was illustrious Valencians. Former Lady Mayor Barberá wears her famous necklace. Next to her, Vicente López, who was the Royals' painter in the early 19th century. 

Seeing her being paid homage in the Municipal Children's Falla was a massive surprise. Blanquita was an extremely charismatic lady in Barri del Carme in the 1990s, known to everyone who lived there or spent nights in the numerous bars and cafes. She was once at my shabby flat at Calle Bolseria.

And the winner is... Falla Convent Jerusalem-Matemàtic Marçal won the biggest prize. 1st Prize in the Special Section.

The Municipal Falla at Plaça de l'Ajuntament is always the last one to be consumed by the flames.

Kilos of powder are burnt in a good mascletà. The one at Plaça Bisbe Amigó is very popular. The paradox of rhythmic explosions creating music.

Every child born in València feels the thrill of lighting fireworks. It's in our DNA.

At 2pm, weather permitting, the Mascletà will be lit. In just five minutes it will all be burnt.

Some of the huge bangers hanging in Plaça Bisbe Amigó.

Mascletà: rhythmic noise, smoke. 

It all needs to come to an end: burn the lot so you will build a new one next year. Falla Baró de Patraix- Conca-Mossén Fenollar is a very good example of what a working-class neighbourhood can modestly achieve. Below: two moments of the Cremà.

Before and after. Year after year, they will create a work of art only to burn it down on the night of March the 19th.

The children's Falla at Plaça Patraix, my local.

It all becomes ashes and a memory. Like everything else.